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The first morning that I awake in my new home in Madrid, Spain, I wander around the apartment, grinning because it’s still real.
In the living room, I hear what sounds like a parade outside and step onto my balcony. At the end of my narrow cobblestone street, I can, indeed, see a parade marching down the cross street. Flashes of color, peals of trumpets and booms of bass drums underscore a chorus of chanting voices. I see a woman across the street on her own balcony, leaning on the railing, cigarette in hand, also watching the parade. She smiles and gives me a little wink, so I wave and smile back.
I’m so eager to explore everything everywhere all at once (shout out to the Daniels for a fantastic title that can be used for everything. Everywhere…. All at once. Sorry.) in my new city, and have a busy schedule this week.
Cine Doré
Tonight I walk to Cine Doré, a cinematheque-type theater that shows indie and older films, to see a foreign film. It was built in 1912, became neglected by the 1960s, and then just as it was about to be demolished in the 1980s, people protested, and it was restored as the venue for Filmoteca Española screenings. It’s got two regular theaters and one on the rooftop – which I have yet to go to.
The lobby itself is worth the price of admission – which is €3, by the way ($3.25)!
There are several other people sitting at the lobby tables with a coffee or beer, so I order a café con leche and read my book while waiting for the show to begin. By the way, I love that you’re not allowed into the theater once the movie has started (which one online reviewer booed – and I boo him!).
Five minutes before showtime, I find my seat and settle in. The theater is old-school gorgeous – which I don’t take a picture of because I’m not an IG nut, but do check out these great photos from a pro photographer.
The lights go down, the curtain goes up, and the foreign film begins: Terminator Dos. With Arnold Schwarzenegger. Hahaha. Technically, it is a foreign film over here. Since I’ve already seen it, I thought it would be a good way to practice my Spanish. Turns out it’s subtitled, though, not dubbed, so I basically just went all the way to Spain to see Terminator 2.
Cine Callao
Another evening I walk to nearby Cine Callao that shows current movies (Spanish and American, from what I read, but this week there are three Hollywood flicks playing). I’m seeing Del Revés 2 (Inside Out 2) for a sweet €7.50 ($8.20). I say “sweet” because in L.A. a new movie costs about a hundred and fifty bucks. Or, you know, $12-20.
Also, there was one ad and no trailers before the feature started — exactly on time.
As is typical in Madrid, certainly in el centro, the building is beautiful. It’s an Art Deco-inspired design by Luis Gutiérrez Soto, built in 1926. Fun fact: On June 13, 1929, the first screening in Spain of a “talky,” The Jazz Singer, was at Cine Callao.
I’ve seen movie listings at this place that say whether an English-language film is in English with Spanish subtitles or dubbed in Spanish, and I don’t remember which version this is. Either way I’m stoked.
Turns out it’s dubbed. My Spanish is not fluent yet, so I only understand about 75% of the movie. What helps was having seen the first Inside Out as well as the trailer for the second one, so I’m aware of the overall story. Gotta say, I’m pretty impressed with myself that I understood enough of this movie — in Spanish with no subtitles! — to enjoy it.
By the way, when talking to Spaniards about some American films, I’ve discovered that the titles are not always a direct translation. Understandable, as sometimes the title is a bit more idiomatic. But I was surprised to find that:
Thelma and Louise = Un Final Inesperado (An Unexpected End) ←They can’t just say Telma y Luisa?
The Sound of Music = Sonrisas y Lágrimas (Smiles and Tears) ←Sounds more like a Woody Allen film.
Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind = Olvídate de Mí! (Forget About Me!) ←That’s pretty accurate.
Beverly Hills Cop = Superdetective en Hollywood ←A detective is not the same as a cop, and Hollywood is not the same as Beverly Hills!
Also, this is French, not Spanish, but I’ve always loved this translation:
Jaws = Les Dents de la Mer (Teeth of the Sea) ← Sounds like a senior citizen lost his dentures while wading in the ocean and spends 90 minutes looking for them.
As I stroll home after the movie in 32°C/94°F temperatures at 10 p.m., the cobblestone streets still lively with outdoor diners, I smile as I realize something: Going to a movie in whatever city I’m in always makes me feel like I’m at home.
CLICK HERE TO READ the next post, ADJUSTING TO LIFE IN SPAIN: International Shit I have to Get Used To
Note: All photos taken or created (using DALL-E) by Selena Templeton, unless otherwise noted.
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